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This Month in Your Garden
JUNE
Roses
Your roses will be slowing down a bit after the riot of color we had in April, and they’d appreciate some
fertilizer this month to give them a boost. A good organic meal for the roses (and for the soil) would be 1 cup bone meal (not if you have a dog - they will dig in the soil!), 1 cup cottonseed meal, 1/2 cup blood meal, 1/2 cup fish meal and 1/2 cup Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). For those of you with less time and money to spend on your roses, any 10-10-10 fertilizer will do. You may want to use something that says “Complete Plant Food” on your roses once a year for the trace elements they usually contain, such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, zinc, manganese, copper, cobalt and boron. Only do this once a year though as some minerals stay in the soil and can be harmful in excess.

Black spot, rust and powdery mildew are loving this damp weather, so you may need to continue
spraying fungicide. Use something with different ingredients than you did last year because fungus can tend to become resistant to some fungicides. Also, because of our recent damp weather, you may notice that the outer petals of some rosebuds, especially on heavily petaled roses, are turning brown and failing to open. When drier weather arrives, this problem will be solved.

I thought I would include recommendations for bringing roses indoors to enjoy them. Cut flowers in early morning or evening; when plant sugars are highest.. Get them in water as soon as possible. Re-cut the stems at a pointed angle under water when you get them in the house, so water, instead of air, fills the holes made at the base of the stem.

It is important to use clean containers. Clean with dish detergent and a small amount of bleach, then rinse well. Be creative with your containers; anything that can hold water will do. To stabilize your arrangement, there are several choices. A layer of clean sand or pebbles on the bottom of the vase is probably the easiest. Some use crunched up chicken wire, or make criss-crosses over the top of the vase to hold the stems in place.

You can also use floral foam such as Oasis. Floral foam has the advantage that it can be cut to fit containers of any size, even a tea cup (which is a great place to show off miniature roses or short
stemmed blooms from a floribunda.) Soak foam until it is saturated, adding floral preservative to the water if you have it. Once it is well soaked, use a knife to cut it to fit the appropriate container. Clear tape can be used to hold it in place. Try to insert the stem only once into a hole, as extra holes will reduce the amount of water the foam holds. Never re-use the foam because it may be filled with bacteria. It is very inexpensive anyway.

Besides picking your most beautiful roses, you may want to consider the most fragrant roses. The James Alexander Gamble Fragrance medal is given to outstandingly fragrant roses. Past winners of this medal include: ‘Crimson Glory,’ ‘Tiffany,’ ‘Chrysler Imperial,’ ‘Sutter’s Gold,’ ‘Granada,’ ‘Fragrant Cloud,’
‘Papa Meilland,’ ‘Sunsprite,’ ‘Double Delight,’ ‘Angel Face,’ ‘Secret,’ and ‘Mr. Lincoln.’ David Austin Roses
have wonderfully fragrant varieties too.

I love bringing my garden indoors and it is definitely worth the effort it takes. Subtle differences in
individual roses (that I don’t necessarily notice outdoors) are more apparent when displayed in a container, thereby increasing my appreciation for my roses.
Perennials and Shrubs
June is a versatile month for gardening in that you can take it easy and enjoy work done in the spring, and simply adopt a maintenance routine. Or you can achieve a new look to your garden by adding shrubs and perennials that can be planted at this time of year.

If you opt to simply maintain, now is the time to step up watering and to fertilize regularly with a balanced,
low-dose fertilizer; this will help protect plants from added stress of summer heat. Strong, healthy plants and a clean garden are your best defense against any measurable damage from harmful insects. Cut back overgrown foliage to make sure plants aren’t stressed by too much development too fast and a target for hungry insects looking for weak new growth. Of course, this advice doesn’t apply to California native plants. You don’t want to fertilize or cut them back this time of year. Sparse to no water is the best plan for them.

On the other hand, there are still lots of options available in June to create or add to a stunning perennial
flower bed for the summer months. The unique looks of many Southern California gardens come from tropical and subtropical plants, many of which are surprisingly drought-tolerant. This trait allows them to live happily with prairie plants that can be planted this time of year. Prairie plants such as salvia, penstemon, rudbeckias, Russian sage and purple coneflower mingle quite happily with tropicals/
subtropicals such as blue hibiscus, gardenias, Natal plum and bougainvillea.

June is the best time to divide bearded irises that have finished blooming. Bearded iris should be divided
every three or four years or they will stop flowering. Luckily this is an easy thing to do and you will be rewarded with lots of extra iris to plant or give away. Water the iris site well to make it easier to dig up the tubers. With a pitch fork or spade lift entire clump out of the ground; brush away soil to expose tubers. With a sharp knife, cut newest tubers with leaf fans away from the original center tuber and dispose of the center tuber. Divide remaining tubers and cut leaves down to three or four inches. Replant in a sunny location like ducks sit in water, half under soil and half above. Iris won’t bloom if their tubers are entirely buried!
Fruits, Herbs and Vegetables
You may not be a vegetable gardener, but as spring-blooming perennials begin to fade in the landscape, June is a good time to make a trip to the nursery and check out what herbs are available to tuck into some of those bare spots in the garden. Most herbs will flourish as companions to other border plantings. They will also attract beneficial insects so you can use only Bt or insecticidal soaps, rather than pesticides for insect control. You can snip and use herbal sprigs in summer recipes and dry some for future use. As spikes and blooming heads develop, they can be cut for floral arrangements or simply left in maturing bedding areas through the fall. Thyme, marjoram and oregano are sun-lovers and come in both upright types and sprawling varieties that can act as ground cover. Rosemary, basil and sage are all somewhat drought-tolerant and have distinct and pleasant scents. French tarragon offers clusters of golden blossoms in autumn. Mint is not recommended as it is very invasive, and so needs to be contained in a pot. But summer through autumn, the color and variety of herbal foliages can enhance bedding areas with new elements of color and interest.

Summer fruits begin maturing this month here in Orange County. Strawberries that have been bearing
for several months will need some mid-day shade to extend the crop. As cane berries and blueberries
come into full production now, keep them well watered and harvest at least every other day to get the
most of your crop. If birds are enjoying your blueberries more than you are, keep them from the marauders with a canopy of bird netting drawn taut over 3 or more stakes, or a cap-like structure of chicken wire. Early summer plums, apricots and peaches, will ripen quickly this month also. Pick them just a little firm for canning. To enjoy them fresh, let them ripen on the tree to peak flavor.

Begin picking vegetables as soon as they mature. Summer squash, green beans, kohlrabi, carrots, radishes and beets will be most tender when picked small. Flavor diminishes and texture changes if they
are allowed to get too large. Continue to pull everyother onion and enjoy them while the others mature.
Place the onions on a rack or screen in a sunny location and allow them to dry for at least one week before clipping off the dried leaves. Onions can be used immediately or stored in a cool dry place for
several weeks.
Copyright ©2001-2008
UCCE Master Gardeners of Orange County
University of California, Cooperative Extension
 

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